Pantyhose sales sag as trends change

[Bob]

From the Bston Globe...

Pantyhose sales sag as trends change

By Ieva M. Augstums, AP Business Writer | December 10, 2006

CHARLOTTE, N.C. --Here's a little secret, guys: Wearing pantyhose is no fun.

Sure, their sheer allure enhances the legs. But they're tight, uncomfortable and one little rip can make them run -- and ruin an entire outfit. And while they once were a staple in a career woman's wardrobe, sheer hosiery today faces an even a bigger snag that can't be fixed with clear nail polish or a Band-Aid -- more than a decade of declining sales.

At Hanesbrands, the nation's leading seller of women's sheer hosiery, the company has been straightforward with investors about the decline. The company said it continues to work on product innovations and is trying to take advantage of current fashion trends, but admits there is little that can be done about the sales decline until the fashion pendulum swings back its way.

"The casualization of the workplace, it is not as strict as before," said Romaine Sargent, vice president and general manager of marketing for hosiery at Hanesbrands. "Women have more options and some are choosing to wear sheer hosiery less."

According to the company, women ages 25 to 54 wear pantyhose an average of 1.8 times a week, down from 3.5 times a week a decade ago. Hosiery sales at Hanesbrands, which includes sheer hosiery (pantyhose, knee-high and thigh high), leggings, tights and trouser socks, totaled $290 million in fiscal 2006 -- a nearly 68 percent drop from the $895 million in sales the company did in fiscal 1995.

The snag, industry experts say, is the generation gap between women who remember a time when stockings and pumps were required workplace attire and slacks were a no-no, an era enshrined forever in the 1980 Jane Fonda-Lily Tomlin comedy "9 to 5."

Nowadays, the trendsetters in many offices wear Capri-style pants, dress shorts, open toe sandals or even flip-flops.

"The traditional waist-high pantyhose garment thrived in the 1980s, it was at a peak," said Sally Kay, president and chief executive of The Hosiery Association, a Charlotte-based trade organization. "But with the onset of the Internet in the '90s, and the ability to work from home, that's when we start to see sales decline."

Hanesbrands, created in September when Sara Lee Corp. spun off its apparel business, makes lingerie, underwear and other clothing for large retailers. The Greensboro-based company's top brand is Hanes, which products include underwear, bras, socks and T-shirts. About 6.5 percent of Hanesbrands' sales comes from hosiery, and those sales have dropped each year since 1995.

Women 40 and older are Hanesbrands' best hosiery customers. Women in the 20-to-35-year-old range wear less sheer hosiery, but show greater interest in alternatives like leggings, tights, trouser socks and even thigh-high hosiery.

"I have a love-hate relationship with pantyhose," said 34-year-old LeeAna S. Valkovschi, a marketing specialist from Charlotte who wears nylons two or three times a week. "I love that they are complimenting to any imperfections that I may have. I hate that by the end of the day they are so binding."

That kind of attitude has contributed to the 24 percent drop in overall sales in Hanesbrands' hosiery business in the past two years.
"Pantyhose feels frumpy and old to younger generations," said Clare Sauro, assistant curator of accessories of The Museum at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology. "Plus, if you've never worn pantyhose, you don't think to wear them now."

The current generation of adolescents and young adults -- Generation Y, or those born between 1977 and 1994 -- "has been known to create their own trends," said David Morrison, founder of the young adult marketing consultancy Twentysomething Inc. in Philadelphia. "Whatever they are going to be comfortable in is going to have main appeal."

Morrison and others note that while young people often take any fashion trend to its extreme, they aren't the only ones dressing down. The "casual Friday" trend that started in the 1990s continues to seep into the rest of the work week.

"The idea of simplicity is very appealing," Morrison said. "Whatever can be done to sleep a couple extra minutes."

And possibly save a couple of extra dollars. Depending on where you shop and the brand you buy, a pair of regular, reinforced toe pantyhose runs about $5 to $9; a three-pair pack about $10 to $15, maybe cheaper if on sale.

Hanesbrands is addressing its problem in several ways. One is by offering pantyhose alternatives like tights, leggings and trouser socks, although Sargent cautions that the company is not "looking to aggressively spend money" on product development in those areas.
Another is by marketing various sheer hosiery innovations. In addition to the longstanding "control top" feature, which slims the tummy and the rear for a smoother look under clothes, the company now offers "anti-cellulite" nylons and even stockings that promise to hydrate your legs.

Those kind of innovations raise costs, however -- prices for some brands sold at high-end department store can reach $50 a pair.
That kind of upselling is tough, particularly when the target is young women who feel squeezed for cash.

"They are asking, 'Why am I spending money on this? It runs, it does this, it does that,'" Morrison said. "A good tie for a guy is going to cost $50 to $100 and it can be worn again."

Hanesbrands' Sargent said her company is trying to listen to younger consumers' tastes and preferences.

"Our younger consumers are not always aware of the innovations in the line. They know what was, but not necessarily what's new," she said. "We are looking for the appropriate way to reach out to them -- is it the Internet? Peer influence?"

Sauro thinks it might be easier for companies just to let the fashion cycle take its course -- and wait for the seemingly inevitable return of sheer, nude-colored pantyhose.

"You have a young generation that is influencing high fashion and that influences a greater population," Sauro said. "It just takes the right person and the right moment with the right generation of new eyes to change things. It will happen. In fashion, anything's possible."

[Cams]

Perhaps they should look at increasing their markets. Men make up around half the population.

[AMM]

....
Sauro thinks it might be easier for companies just to let the fashion cycle take its course -- and wait for the seemingly inevitable return of sheer, nude-colored pantyhose.

"You have a young generation that is influencing high fashion and that influences a greater population," Sauro said. "It just takes the right person and the right moment with the right generation of new eyes to change things. It will happen. In fashion, anything's possible."

One thing they don't mention is that the pantyhose (tights) they sell are boring. Maybe that's why the younger generation is ignoring them.

I get the Hanes catalog, and everything is in shades of off-black and brown. I wouldn't want to buy them, I wouldn't want to look at someone wearing them. (Well, maybe I would want to look at some someones wearing them, but it would be in spite of the boring old pantyhose.)

I see women on the subway and on the street with patterned tights, colored tights, brightly colored tights, ones with pictures, and I do like looking at them. I might even want to buy them (the tights, I mean ), either for myself or for a certain someone, but it's almost impossible to find them anywhere.

Maybe if Hanes thought of tights as something for people to look at, instead of something to help their wearers blend into a crowd of their grandmothers, they might find more buyers, especially among people who would never dream of buying boring old sheer pantyhose.

-- AMM

[Departed Member]

One thing they don't mention is that the pantyhose (tights) they sell are boring. Maybe that's why the younger generation is ignoring them.-- AMM

And there I was thinking these 'garments' were only invented to last the duration of the mini-skirt!
I don't think they're particularly healthy (in the crotch area), in warm/humid climates, though.

Having said that, I was advised, years ago, to wear (lycra) tights when cycling and would have to agree that they offer excellent support for the calf muscles in particular. Certainly, a huge number of policemen, building workers, dustmen, postmen, etc. used to wear them for warmth in winter (no doubt, their wife's snagged 'cast-offs'!). The 'down' sides are the liability to 'snagging' (= write-off), potential 'over-heating' in the crotch area and the biggest single factor, the cost! If one's going down that road, then stockings (or 'thigh highs') have the major advantage if you wreck one, the other becomes a 'spare' for the next pair!

[Charlie]

The only sag I've experienced was when I bought a pair too big for me

Charlie

[Pythos]

Ah the old "pantyhose are tight and uncomfortable" routine.

Yes they can be. I have noticed that many woman have no idea how to put them on, or wear them.

For instance. My lady roomate and myself were at home. She was getting ready for a company dinner. She had chosen a nice dress, and shoes, and was griping about her having to wear pantyhose. Now she knows of my skirt wearing so was not at all suprised with my asking "Why do you not like hose? I love them." and explained what I liked about them, which she agreed with mostly. After a bit she started getting ready. First thing she did was get in a dressing gown so that I would not have to leave the room. She took off her pants she had on, and grabbed her hose, and started putting them on like pants! I saw this and exclaimed "well no wonder you hate them, your putting them on all wrong, doing it that way you are gonna rip em to shreds before you get them halfway on." I then went in my room and grabbed a pair, and came back to perform a demonstration that her mom should have done ages ago. I had on my leggings so the hose would just slide right over. I showed her how to scrunch the hose up and gently slide them over ones toes, ankle, and gently up the leg. I slowly and gently got into the hose, and then said for her to repeat what I did...after taking off the panties I knew she left on.

Well she pulled them on like I showed her, while I continued working on her computer, and after getting them on stated how much better they felt. I then showed her how to get them up even better by wetting the palm of ones hand and gently dragging the palm over the hose.

What I found obsurd was here I was showing a girl how to put on her hose, something that should have been done by moma a long time ago. She got into her skirt suit and shoes, comented how strange it felt with just the hose under the skirt, but how it also felt nice, got the rest of her stuff together, and left for her event.

When she came back I noticed she did not imeadiately get out of her hose, but instead kept them on for the rest of the evening, under her dressing gown.

She still rarely wears them, but when she does, she keeps them on.

I think ignorance and cheap brands are why hose have gotten the bum wrap they have gotten honestly.

[trainman]

Got to agree with Pythos.

Stocking and hose when put on properly are quite confortable, and sometimes quite handy. I have been wearing a brand called sheer relief on occasion of late. They compress the legs, and do wonders for leg aches while at work.

And I've just got to laugh that she didn't know how to put them on!

[JeffB1959]

Trends as well as fashion as a whole is entirely cyclical. What's not in vogue today will invariably return to being in vogue tomorrow. Just wait awhile and hosiery will return to it's proper place in the fashion pecking order. It's only a matter of time.

[Skirt Chaser]

What I found obsurd was here I was showing a girl how to put on her hose, something that should have been done by moma a long time ago.

Well, don't just blame mother, dad obviously didn't teach her either. If nobody wore them nobody had that skill to teach.

[SkirtDude]

deleted

[sapphire]

For many years pantyhose were a staple of my wardrobe. I had beautifully tailored suits (jacket, vet, skirt) and coordinating pumps. My suits ran the gamut of brown, black, navy, red, gray and even purple with nice coordinating pumps and pantyhose in shades of brown and gray. Very corporate.

The problem is that when you wear pantyhose on a consistently frequent basis, the cost is high. The things run and have to be replaced. Their lifespan is short.

In the summer, they are hot. We used to call them bolongna skins.

It really came down to economics: Why am I spending so much for something so ephemeral?

Diana

[sapphire]

For many years pantyhose were a staple of my wardrobe. I had beautifully tailored suits (jacket, vet, skirt) and coordinating pumps. My suits ran the gamut of brown, black, navy, red, gray and even purple with nice coordinating pumps and pantyhose in shades of brown and gray. Very corporate.

The problem is that when you wear pantyhose on a consistently frequent basis, the cost is high. The things run and have to be replaced. Their lifespan is short.

In the summer, they are hot. We used to call them bolongna skins.

It really came down to economics: Why am I spending so much for something so ephemeral?

Diana

[AMM]

The problem is that when you wear pantyhose on a consistently frequent basis, the cost is high. The things run and have to be replaced. Their lifespan is short.

My impression is that it's the sheer ones that have most of the problem with runs.

I have some opaque tights, and I seldom have runs with them. Around the house, I sometimes wear thigh-highs (for warmth), which I can only find in "very sheer", and they run after one or two wearings. They snag and rip just sitting down on the couch. I don't mind wearing stockings with runs around the house, since it's just me, but it would be a real pain if I were, say, on the way to an interview. There's a reason, guys, why every drug store (in the UK, think Boots) has a huge pantyhose display: women frequently have to replace their hose during the day.

An issue for me, at least, is that it's very hard to find tights/hose that fit. Mainly, the legs are too short. If I put on "Q" size or larger tights and go for a walk, after a few blocks, the crotch is almost down to my knees. I then have to pull them up, which puts the top in the middle of my chest. Thigh-highs slide down over my knees after a block or two.

Do women also find that the commonly available pantyhose and the like don't really fit all that well?

Another "fit" problem that I have and my ex used to complain about is that the waistbands are uncomfortably tight. They also tend to roll over and form a tight rope around the stomach. (But if they're not tight, they slide down ....)

It seems to me that there is a market opportunity for someone. Come up with comfortable, well-fitting, durable, nice- or interesting-looking hosiery, and you could clean Hanes' clock.


-- AMM

[sapphire]

Yes, AMM, the sheer ones are the most fragile. The are also the ones that are the most acceptable in a business environment, especially if the woman is in management.

I might add that the dress code expectations for women in management are almost as rigid as those for men.

Opaque tights really don't work during the summer.

I've seem some widly patterned tights that are just too cool but heaven help you if you wear them to a trustees meeting.

Diana

[crfriend]

My impression is that it's the sheer ones that have most of the problem with runs.

Correct. It's all down to engineering; the less robust a structure (whether constructed from steel and concrete or nylon) is, the more likely it is to fail. The heavy opaque tights don't ladder as easily as the sheers because the individual nylon strands are much thicker in tights (US usage) than pantyhose.

There are a myriad other things that can go wrong, too, if one wants to wear sheers -- fingernails, for one, and callouses for another. Rough fingernails (or otherwise sharp ones) are virtually guaranteed to damage sheer hosiery; this includes nails that are habitually gnawed upon (guilty as charged). Callouses, if rough, can also cause snags and failures in the integrity of the garment. If that's not bad enough, the condition of one's feet need to be taken into consideration for the same things (callouses and sharp nails).

And, of course, the ruddy things sometimes ladder just because you look at them askance. I wore hose with the mini that Diana described the other day (mainly just because I just felt like it); they looked OK (structurally intact) when I put 'em on, but after a half day had a ladder slowly climbing skyward from one heel. I suspect callouses....

I have some opaque tights, and I seldom have runs with them.

I routinely wear opaques, even under tr*users, in winter; they provide a nice layer of extra warmth with scarcely any bulk at all -- in short, superior underthings.

I'll admit to never having tried stockings or "thigh-highs". (See the "stay-up or stick-up" thread where there was some laughter on the terminology.)

An issue for me, at least, is that it's very hard to find tights/hose that fit.

I've found that to be trial and error; sizing is not standard between brands, and, well, womens' dimensions are different from ours. I'm skinny as a rail (almost) and find that "Just My Size" X3 is what works. I get the same problem with the waistband rolling down (very annoying), but at least they don't sag.

I get 'round the problem nowadays with most skirts by wearing knee-highs (Thanks John!).