Stitched down pleats vs non-stitched down

General discussion of skirt and kilt-based fashion for men, and stuff that goes with skirts and kilts.
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Reject
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Stitched down pleats vs non-stitched down

Post by Reject »

Are there any significant reasons why pleats are not stitched on many kilts? I recently got a casual-weight kilt from Scotland to find the pleats not stitched down. My initial reaction was "well, take it to a tailor and have them stitched down". I have this on my two other kilts.
But somewhere I figure there ought to be a reason why they're not stitched down...or is there?

Please enlighten me on my way to the tailor :)

/Ricky, Sweden
Playpal
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Post by Playpal »

Hi, Ricky, I have only just joined. It is not normal for pleats to be stitched, although stitching makes laundering much much easier
Playpal
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Post by Playpal »

Some would argue that stitching prevents the normal hang of the fabric and makes it too rigid
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Post by Reject »

Right, cheers mate. Not much of an ironer, so I guess I will resort to having the pleats stitched down then - the way Im used to any way. I dont mind if the fabric gets "rigid". I bet the difference is barely noticable. Also I think the kilt will stand up better to wear, as you need not worry about creasing as much.
That, among with ease of laundering, is the main reason I prefer having them stitched down.

/Ricky
Overtahill
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Post by Overtahill »

On a wool kilt, the material takes a knife edged press, and holds it for an incredibly long time - several years in fact. A properly made traditional kilt hangs straight down from the fell (Where the stirches stop) and, if you stand still, the kilt will appear to have no pleats at all. Stitching down the pleats will ruin a good garment.

The reason kilts like the utilikilt and their counterparts have stitched down pleats is because the material won't hold a crease. They are designed to be washed at home and worn with minimal ironing.

I suggest you think twice before stitching down the pleats on a wool kilt. I think you will regret it once the damage is done.

Cheers,
Rick
The worm that destroys you is the temptation to agree with your critics in order to get their approval.
Big and Bashful
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Post by Big and Bashful »

I find creases disappear from my heavy woollen trad. kilt, but the pleats have lasted since 1989. They are not stitched, when the kilt is dry cleaned the pleats are sharper for a while. As long as the kilt is hung properly and not abused it continues to hold the pleats in shape. Even keeps its shape after being worn in wet weather.
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Monty
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Post by Monty »

the main difference is that cheap kilts often do not have the pleats sewn down as a cost cutting exercise, in short the kilt is probably synthetic polyester and sewing down the pleats will probably if done properly better redemble a normal kilt
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Post by Big and Bashful »

To clarify,
mine has a thin waist 'band', below that the pleats are stitched for the first seven inches or so, then the rest of the fabric hangs loose and naturally keeps the shape of the pleats.
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Reject
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Post by Reject »

Thanks for the input, guys. I did however fail to mention that this kilt is not really a traditional kilt per se. As far as I can tell, its still made to the same specifications, however in a lighter material. Its definatly not wool, but rather some kind of mixed fibres.

I would, as suggested, think twice if this was a real traditional garment. But since this is not the case, Im planning to use it for every day wear and tear.

One question remains though, for you who know; there is probably some shrinkage involved when washing. Should I take it to the tailor first, or have it washed one *before* having the pleats sewn down?

/Ricky, hurrying off to work
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