Sewing closed a side slit

[Coder]

I had a denim skirt with a side slit that went too high up for my comfort level. I wanted to wear it, and preserve the look the skirt had - so any alterations had to be reversible and as invisible as possible. There are many options to alter a skirt in this way, all depending on the shape of the skirt:

Add an inverted box pleat, what one might call a "godet" (good for a pencil/straight skirt)

Unpick the side hem, stitch it where the crease is, and sew down the seam once more (good for an a-line or full skirt, or one with stretch)

Add a strip of elastic on the inside of the skirt and along the side hem, top stitch the elastic to the side hem so that the skirt slit is closed up OR reveals some of the elastic (presumably the elastic would add some contrast)

Add a strip of decorative elastic to the outside, perhaps on both sides for symmetry, to close up and hide the slit. Using elastic, the slit can open up if the extra stretch is needed.

Add a decorative zipper on top of the side slit, allowing for some adjustment

Punch holes or add d-rings and lace the slit closed

And the option I went with:

Add a hidden zipper inside the skirt, allowing for adjustment but preserving the original look of the skirt

Next post will go over the steps I took.

[Coder]

Size up the slit - in this case my slit was 11", so I needed a zipper slightly longer. They sell cuttable hidden zippers, so I purchased a 22" long zipper (the next size down was too short):



I pinned the zipper in place. For the first side, I started at the bottom of the skirt and worked my way up. After finishing it, I worked my way down to avoid any waves. I only went through one denim layer, so my stitches aren't seen on the front:



Zipper sewn in place, zipped fully:



Partially unzipper:



As seen from inside:



I have one last step to complete - which is to reinforce the zipper with additional closer-spaced stitches. What I did is probably closer to basting than a final stitch, but it is holding up enough for me to test out and make sure it looks good. I'm very happy with the result so far, and with some additional stitches it will be ready for wear!

[Ozdelights]

That was a very large side slit. Well done with the zip.

[pelmut]

What a clever idea -- and some of the other suggestions were equally good.

[denimini]

Very impressive installing a zipper so neatly.

[Uncle Al]

Good Job

This is just a suggestion but try to find a matching color thread, to the original thread in the skirt.
This part is time consuming - rip out the outer most stitching of the 'slit'. Then use the original
markings as a guide to sew in the zipper. This will add strength to the zipper.

Otherwise, go with a triangle pleat, to allow flexibility yet provide the modesty you desire,
and not having to worry if the zipper suddenly un-zips as you're moving or sitting.

Just my $.02 worth

Uncle Al

[Coder]

This is just a suggestion but try to find a matching color thread, to the original thread in the skirt.
This part is time consuming - rip out the outer most stitching of the 'slit'. Then use the original
markings as a guide to sew in the zipper. This will add strength to the zipper.

Had this been a $10 skirt - yes, this is the way to go about it. Unfortunately, I paid a bit more than I care to admit for it (though not by far the most expensive thing I've bought), it's a designer label (moschino - check eBay for second hand prices) and the idea of unstitching it makes me cringe. It's also "vintage" if you consider the 90's vintage But yes - I agree with this technique.

Otherwise, go with a triangle pleat, to allow flexibility yet provide the modesty you desire,
and not having to worry if the zipper suddenly un-zips as you're moving or sitting.

I'm hoping this one doesn't unzip by itself - if I had used a standard zipper yes, very likely to happen. Invisible zippers, though, tend to be harder to actuate and stay in place. I'll find out Friday.

I would have gone the triangle pleat (godet / inverted box pleat / etc...) in a contrasting color or fun pattern if it were a straighter skirt - but even zipped fully I can just fit in a full stride. Unzipped 2", there is no restriction. With a pleat, I was worried about it flapping out or staying open while walking - though stitching along the pleat should keep it from popping out. Still, it is somewhere between a straight/a-line (b-line?) and not necessary.

I may try the pleat with another skirt I bought. It has a slit in the front (something I didn't realize when I purchased it) and feels very revealing.

[Modoc]

Coder
Excellent idea and work to bring it to fruition. I've walked away from a number of potential skirt buys because I didn't like the split. Now I'll just have to convince my tailor to put in a zipper as per your example

[Coder]

Coder
Excellent idea and work to bring it to fruition. I've walked away from a number of potential skirt buys because I didn't like the split. Now I'll just have to convince my tailor to put in a zipper as per your example

I’ve worn it several times since and having the adjustable zipper is nice, it’s worth the effort. Just be sure to get a zipper that will stay in position - hidden zippers should on their own.

[familyman34]

Coder
Excellent idea and work to bring it to fruition. I've walked away from a number of potential skirt buys because I didn't like the split. Now I'll just have to convince my tailor to put in a zipper as per your example

I’ve worn it several times since and having the adjustable zipper is nice, it’s worth the effort. Just be sure to get a zipper that will stay in position - hidden zippers should on their own.

Twice recently, on Saturday and this morning, I bought garments from the "reduced" rail in local charity shops; these are for items that have not sold over the previous four weeks or so, and have now been given a final reduction for a further two weeks before they get sent off for "kilo-rated" rags (usually £0.50 to £0.70 per kilo).
One of garments in question was priced at £0.50, the other at £1.00. The reason that bought them is that they both had excellent long zips in perfect working order (It's essential to test the zip before purchase!). Equivalent new zips might cost between £7.50 and £12.00. All I have to do now is unpick the existing stitching. Children's clothing in charity shops is often even cheaper (typically three or five items for £1.00), but their zips can be too short for many purposes.

[familyman34]

And it does seem a pity to wreck two garments just to get the zips.

But they were something that nobody had wanted for several weeks (badly made? ugly? wrong size? etc.), and if I hadn't bought them, they would have gone off to the rag bin and ended up as automotive soundproofing felt or in the second-hand clothing markets of Africa (where our rejected stuff has already destroyed their indigenous garment industries.)