Sebs sweatshop

[Seb]

I thought I would make a thread for the bits and bops I try to tinker up.

Last year I salvaged an old bedsheet and made a dress, mostly for practice. Now the bodice is super plain and the sleeves a bit tight and out of style and a pretty big square neckline. The skirt is a four panel rectangle with pockets in the seams between front and side. and my wife hates it... But I came to love it, I mostly wear it with a jumper over and when missus is out of the house.

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I had a ruffle around the neckline from the start but changed it for a facing, looks cleaner.

But I still had an itch to make more clothes, so I started drawing, youtubeing and my wife got me a few books. I ordered in some cheap fabric to practice some more on(so much easier on new fabric!).

I made a tunic, well it comes down to mid thigh, so I guess it could go as a dress too, not happy with the neckline but it was good practice with inserting elastic in the sleeves and bias binding the neck. Ill have to take a good picture of it sometime(I only have a close up of the neckline in my phone).

This week I started my third (big) project, a rectangle skirt with two panels and big pockets. This one will be pleated, 6cm pleats. Not sure how to do the waist band so it stays up, but I figured Ill find out when I get that far(otherwise I guess it will be another dress) planning on having belt loops though to hang stuff off.

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Its just shy of 3m at the hem, 1/3 in the front panel and 2/3 in the back to bring the pockets into a good position, its not a lot to show yet but its cut out and sewn together and I'm working on the pleats now.

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Here is the pockets, 40cm deep, 18cm wide, should be sufficent.

Next picture probably when I have basted the pleats in place and can get it around me(atm the waist circumference is 288cm, so Its a tad on the large side )

[denimini]

Very impressive so far and when you get totally proficient you will be able to design and make skirts and dresses exactly what you want. I would love to have the time and ability to do that.

[pelmut]

Excellent! You have put a lot of thought and skill into that.

[rode_kater]

That's actually really good. I have some attempts, but they don't look nearly at nice as your top picture here.

I'm working on my first pleated skirt, but with a striped fabric so the pleats align with the fabric. My biggest challenge is actually finishing something...

[Uncle Al]

A recommendation from personal experience. Baste the pleats FIRST
I must ask - how wide of a waist band do you want Take that width, double
it and add 1/2 inch to the width. Cut your material to the desired length, plus
1/2 to 3/4 inches. I use 'iron-on' sizing(waist band strengthening material),
attached to the backside of the waistband. Fold the width in half, good side in.
Sew the length of the band closed, leaving about 2 inches not sewn.
Sew both ends closed. Invert the band, through the un-sewn portion, putting
the "good side" out. Attached the band to your pleated material.

Blast it It's easier to show how its done than describe the procedures.
But, I'm not in a position to 'film' that.

Anyway, I hope you understand my 'description' of procedures

Uncle Al

[6ft3Aussie]

Seb,
You have some interesting work there, and it would be very handy to be able to make items to your own custom measurements and styles.

I haven't done any sewing since I was at school, say aside from sewing on buttons etc, about 36 or 37 years.
My mum used to have a sewing machine but I have no idea where that ended up after she passed away in 1998.

[rode_kater]

Blast it It's easier to show how its done than describe the procedures.
But, I'm not in a position to 'film' that.

Anyway, I hope you understand my 'description' of procedures

No, it was pretty clear. By "'waist band strengthening material" I assume you mean fusable interfacing. Or do you actually mean waist stay tape (which is more for corsets)?

The bit I always get stuck on is how to close the skirt. You can use a zip, velcro (ugh), buttons or just elastic. I think zips look best, but they're tricky. I'm actually going for elastic this time, because it's simple and (hopefully) more comfortable. i want something i can actually wear.

[Seb]

Thanks for all the feedback! I work 75% and work 3-shift so I get some time alone at home every now and then to spend on my projects.

pleats1.jpg

I use 'iron-on' sizing(waist band strengthening material),
attached to the backside of the waistband.

That is a very good idea, I didn't think of using interfacing to help it stay in shape. Your explanation is perfectly understandable in text.

The bit I always get stuck on is how to close the skirt.

Yes, I find this too hard to wrap my head around, especially with pockets in the side seams it would either require a back seam for a zipper/button(and I don't quite like that location, or a front seam. For this one I'll be going with elastic as long as its not too hard to get the basted skirt(without waistband) up over my hips, as that's the size the waistband will be, if its to hard I need to rethink it and probably add in a zip/button somewhere, if it was gathered and not pleated elastic would be the definitive answer I think. Your striped fabric probably makes it easier to get the pleats straight, it takes time when you have no lines to follow. xD

[Seb]

I finished the pleats today and got it all pinned up ready for basting when I ran out of black thread. Still desperatly needs an Iron, but Im quite happy so far.

Think I'm going an elastic waistband but putting belt loops on it too for good measure(and to more easily find the pockets). I will try with the interfacing too

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Its hard to see, but there is a box pleat in front, then knife pleats around ending in a inverted box.

Its sittning a little low in the picture, had to hold it up and some of the pins were poking me so I did it fast.

[Spirou003]

It looks actually very good. Thanks for sharing. I'm thinking since a long time about making a very similar skirt but was wondering if it would look nice, I have an answer now. I'm eager to see the final result!

[Seb]

It looks actually very good.

Thank you!

I got the time needed to wrap this project up the last two days. First time making a waistband so that was a headache getting the construction order right and had to pick a few seams along the way, but at least I have a better understanding of what I want to do differently next time.

All the pleats are sewn down(overstitch on the fold) to help them keep the pleated shape(unlike the blue dress in the first post) without meticulous ironing. Belt hoops are sewn into the waistband(not onto it as most commercial ones are) so they are part of the design instead of an attachment. I put elastic into the waistband to help keep it in place and the hoops are mostly to be able to pair it with a belt for looks(and hanging keys off of course). Two big pockets hidden into the pleats, there big enough to each fit a nintendo switch lite in a hard case, though the elastic waistband wont hold that weight in the right place(Another bonus to dresses).

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I tried taking a picture outdoors for better lighting, but its so bright that the skirt just turned into a black sheet in contrast to the snow.

I think I have a new favourite though, its very comfortable, a good length and the big pockets are (almost, a little larger opening so I can get my books into them too) perfect and it looks sharp I think. (And yes, it twirls just perfectly )

Next up is a half-button up dress with the same skirt on and a camp collar and some other bits and bops. I'm not sure if I want to it sleeveless or add long sleeves yet, thinking I might make a second sleeveless one in a lighter linen fabric for summer, but I need to plan it out, already got the buttons and dark blue fabric(was a little darker than I expected but it should fade a little with use).

[rode_kater]

Looks really great! Well done!

[greenboots]

I’d certainly wear that!

[Spirou003]

Great one, congratulations! This is something I would love to wear!
You're speaking about not having to iron it too cautiously and spoke about a sewing technique to help with this. I'm curious, what textile did you use? Before you started the thread I did already buy cotton twill (one in red, one in marine blue). I feel that sewn with the same technique, ironing it will be easy as well.
... But that will be when I will have had time to tidy my sewing room, which is not anytime soon

[Seb]

Thanks for the comments!

@Spirou:
I used a cheap woven cotton, 140g/m2. I wanted to try it out before buying any expensive fabric. The Twill will probably work even better, it should be heavier. I noticed that after a few wears the pleats kind of got new folds, that which I was hoping to avoid, interfacing them would probably work, but that seems like a lot of extra work.

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It should be easy enough to iron out though, the stiches make it easy to see where the folds should go. I think my material is just too light to hold down the folds when something else(Jumper in this case) tries to fold them another way.

Edit:
I think it might be better to use a polyester fabric for the pleats, it should hold them better and not require additional seams, just ironing them down. I will have to try it.