Skirt Design Resources

For those do-it-yourselfers...
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JRMILLER
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Skirt Design Resources

Post by JRMILLER »

Hi,
Took a trip to Joann fabrics and was blow away by all the fabric choices! I am also a plus size and as such, there are not nearly as many fashion choices in skirts available for plus sizes as there are for smaller women. Thus, this has me thinking along these lines:

1) Find some nice geometric skirt designs I like, scale them accordingly.

2) Go to Joann fabrics and pick the fabric of my choice.

3) Cut and sew.

This means many many more options for me if I can figure out how to design skirts.

Thus, I am at the very beginning of this and I would appreciate any links or books you are aware of that lays out the fundamental geometric designs of skirts and how to make them or links to site which do the same.

Of course, somewhere along the way I need to learn how to sew too, but my wife is well equipped in that arena, we will muddle through some how.

Think of the possibilities!

BTW, I would never in a million years seek out the design of trousers and try to make my own trousers. I wonder why that is - like who cares!

Also, if I make skirts myself with my own designs and fabrics, no one can EVER accuse me of wearing clothing made for women (well, I suppose they can, but what do they know anyway).

Cheers,
-John
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r.m.anderson
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Post by r.m.anderson »

Have thought about sewing my own along similiar lines (design).
While JoAnn and other fabric stores have a great deal of fabrics
to select from the major problem is the construction of the garmet.
You need to have a plan to make the skirt/dress kilt what have
you to fit correctly. A good plan would be to make a pattern.
JoAnn and most of the fabric stores have a section selling patterns.
The patterns tend to be in the smaller misses sizes requiring an
adjustment for larger sizes. My thought was to buy two adjacent
size patterns in the largest sizes available (i.e. 10 and 12 or 14 and 16)
and compare how the pattern is laid out then make adjustments for
increasing the size to my needs. Once you have a pattern/model
for your size then it gets easier to make the skirt, dress or kilt.
The difficulty then is only in the fabric itself - if it stretches has a
weave, cross weave or is cut on a bias(?) Then what kind of sewing
stitches are you going to use? Elastic type waist (pull-on) or set in
zipper/button closing.
One could also go to a thrift store, outlet or a store catering to plus
large sizes and get an inexpensive item that fits well and then make
a pattern from that. Sometimes easier than making a small pattern
bigger.
As for books on sewing construction JoAnn has them as well as
Borders - Barnes Nobles and big city libraries.
In regard to wearing clothing designated womens wear - one of the
posters in one of these forums had it well noted that it was HIS dress
skirt and not a womans since HE was wearing and owned it!
Not everyone can wear off the rack clothes and the ability to make your
own is a definite plus - you can truly boast that the dress skirt you are
wearing was customed made by and for you! Well maybe you would
not want to boast about it but wear it in pride!
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sapphire
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Post by sapphire »

I suggest that you start with a pattern, either Simplicity or McCall's. FYI some Wal-Marts also carry patterns.

Look for something simple, like an a-line. These pattern companies DO carry larger sizes, up to size 22 or 24. The most important measurement is the hip measurement. Base your size selection on that measurement.

Then make a decision. either get an inexspenive If you, choose muslin what you will be doing will be making a permanent, custom fitted pattern for the skirts of this style that you will eventually make with more expensive fabric.

Your ideal "starter skirt" will have one or two pattern pieces for the front, one or two pieces for the back, maybe one piece for pockets and one piece for the waistband. Choose a pattern with a rear zipper.. It's just easier for a beginner.

Your pattern will include construction instructions.

If you want to move ahead with this project, let me know what pattern you've purchased and we can walk through the waist adjustment that you will have to make to make it fit the male figure. Then we can walk through the construction.
SkirtDude

Post by SkirtDude »

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JRMILLER
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Sportkilt

Post by JRMILLER »

Thanks guys,
My first project will be to duplicate the "sportkilt" that I purchased in December. It is plaid, I will use a soft denim. It really doesn't look too difficult and it fastens with velcro!

We measured up the sportkilt tonight and it will take approx 3 yards of material to duplicate it. We will visit JoAnn's tomorrow and buy the material!

There is another contradance on Jan 5, and the goal is to have it ready to go by then!

I will post the developing details as they develop!
-John
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simon
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Post by simon »

Starting with a pattern is probably a very good idea. Having said that, in my opinion it would also be well worthwhile reading something about patten drafting so you can see where the shapes and sizes come from.

I've found a site that appears to have good instructions for drafting a skirt pattern from your measurements. (I say appears because I haven't tried it yet.) Perhaps Sapphire could say if this pattern would be right for a man, or if there are assumptions about the female figure made. (I would be interested in this too)

http://www.fashion-era.com/Pattern_draf ... _draft.htm

You can then find various ways to modify this base pattern.

eg.
http://thesewingdivas.wordpress.com/200 ... th-godets/
Simon
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sapphire
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Post by sapphire »

This will hopefully be a two part reply. My machine isn't rendering the first page properly, so when I find a machine that displays it properly, I'll comment.

The second link appears to be a workable concept for adding flare to a straight skirt. Personally, I think it would be great fun to get a straight skirt that fits the waist from the thrift store. Take in the sides if you have to to accomodate your hips. Then get contrasting fabric for the godets. This can either be yardage from the fabric store or shirts and blouses from the thrift store. Then follow the directions on the website.

IN GENERAL patterns for men's skirts vs patterns for women's skirts is the differences in circumferences of waists and hips.

IN GENERAL women have more slender waists and wider hips and men have wider waists and more slender hips in proportion to one another.

SO if you work from an existing woman's pattern, you will most likely have to cut additional fabric at the waistline.

SOMEHOW, you need to accomodate the change in circumference from waist to hips in some manner. Most of the pix of homemade skirts that I've seen here use a gathered or elasticized or drawstring waist to acoomplish this. If you want a more fitted look at the waist, you'll have to consider either using darts or using tapered panels.
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Post by Hotdog »

I learnt to sew in the seventies, because I could not buy the type of skirt that I wanted, a 50's style calf-length straight skirt.

A straight skirt is very easy to make, I would recommend the McCall's M3830, straight skirt pattern. This skirt consists of a front panel and two back panels. It has a back zip and a back vent for walking. If you don't like the back vent you can ether dispense with it altogether or do what I do and convert it into a 2" wide knife pleat. The skirt also has a simple waistband which is usually the most difficult part of making a skirt. If you have not made a skirt before you need to get a copy of ' Easy Guide to Sewing Skirts' by Marcy Tilton.

Always chose your skirt pattern by your waist measurement. As a general rule women's sizes are based on their hips being 10" bigger than their waist, so you will need to get a pattern that fits on the waist, then take in the side seams to fit.

If anybody is thinking of making a skirt from this pattern and needs advice I will be only too pleased to help.
simon
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Re: Skirt Design Resources

Post by simon »

Another comment that a pattern will be easiest, but if you want to have a look at the design of skirts try having a look at http://www.vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-08.html. It's a whole chapter from a book on designing skirts, but the book was from 1940, so you won't get information about more modern styles.
Simon
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Re: Skirt Design Resources

Post by Since1982 »

Try "Woman Within" just type "twill or denim skirts" in the search line once you get to the site. Or call to order at (800) 228-3120. I have at least 15 from there. They have a sale on now for denim skirts for only $6.88 each. Good Luck! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :thewave:
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Re: Skirt Design Resources

Post by SkirtDude »

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