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Story of Life, Perspire, Expire, Funeral Pyre!I've been skirted part time since 1972 and full time since 2005. http://skirts4men.myfreeforum.org/
I am going to a Quaker conference this summer in Blacksburg, VA and I would like to join the other men who wear kilts, there, mostly utilikilts.
I'd suggest you take the hip measurement and subtract the waist
measurement. The difference would be divided by the number of
pleats in your kilt. If your 'difference' is 2 inches and you have 16 pleats,
that would work out to 1/8" per pleat for the taper.
I have 3 Stillwater Kilts, and they don't have much of a 'taper'.
There is some, but not a lot. I my case, my waist is larger than
my hips but not by much. I'm in the process of losing
weight, so this will change
I hope this 'suggestion' helps you out
Grand Musician of the Grand Lodge, I.O.O.F. of Texas 2008-2009, 2015-2016,
2018-2020(and the beat goes on )
When asked 'Why the Kilt?'
I respond-The why is F.T.H.O.I. (For The H--- Of It)
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First off, welcome aboard jotham! It's nice to make your acquaintance.[... W]here I need help, is tapering in the pleats above the hipline in towards the waist. Any thoughts or directions out there?
From recollection, there isn't any tapering of the pleats on a kilt as it trends towards the waistline. Instead, the already pleated portion has a couple of triangular sections cut from it (with the "points" downward to accommodate the cut) and then sewn together. This is known (again, if I'm recalling correctly) as "waist suppression" and is applicable only if the intended wearer's waist is smaller than his hips (in many men's cases this is not true). If your waistline is larger than your hip measurement, then one can simply drop the fabric from the waist, or one can factor in the "beer gut cut" that is done with the Utilikilt style.
Unfortunately, the reference I have here in .DTF (Dead Tree Format) was printed from a link that is now as dead as the tree my reference is printed on.
Do it up! And please post a "trip report". Inquiring minds are always curious about how things go in the world around them.I am going to a Quaker conference this summer in Blacksburg, VA and I would like to join the other men who wear kilts, there, mostly utilikilts.
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First of all, if you haven't made a kilt before, be warned: it's a lot of work, and precise work, too: any sloppiness will really show. I did mine without a pattern, but I don't recommend it if you want to get it right the first time. Folkwear has a pattern, I don't know how good it is. I've also seen on-line guides, try spending a few days Googling.jotham wrote:... where I need help, is tapering in the pleats above the hipline in towards the waist. Any thoughts or directions out there?
As far as taper goes, I have Traditional Scottish Kilt(tm), and there is definitely some taper to it, especially at the back. Unless your butt doesn't stick out at all (on most of us, it does), this is necessary. You also need some taper all around unless your waist (stomach) is substantially bigger than your hips, or else the pleats won't lie flat and it'll look like your kilt is too small.
If you're making your own and you aren't trying to make a Traditional Scottish Kilt(tm), then how much to taper depends on how you like your kilt to fit.
I prefer to have it hang from my "belt line", just like my trousers, and I like it loose everywhere else. "Belt line" means, in my case a line that is 3" lower in front than in back. "Loose" at the hips means adding about 8" to my hip measurement, which comes to 58". Since my waist measurement is 46", I taper each pleat from hip to waist in a 4:3 ratio. To be specific, I mark where the visible folds should go on the fabric, and if, say, they should be spaced 2" at the hip when folded, I sew them down for a little way at 2" (so they hang straight) and then, as you get closer to the waistband, I start pulling them closer together until they get to, say 1.5" or so. I also taper the apron, but that's trickier. I tried putting in little gathers, but wasn't happy with the results.
Cutting away the fabric above the hip line may or may not be necessary, I've heard differing opinions. If you are using 15 oz wool, it's probably a good idea. If you're using quilting-weight cotton, it's probably not worth it, and, given how flexible the fabric is, may cause the pleats to sag. I didn't bother.
One place to try asking is at the Usenet group alt.sewing There are a number of people there who have made numerous kilts, and they would know a lot more than me.
That's only a month away, I wouldn't count on getting done by then unless you have lots of free time.jotham wrote:I am going to a Quaker conference this summer in Blacksburg, VA and I would like to join the other men who wear kilts, there, mostly utilikilts.
This is the reason why I'm not giving any instructions at all to somebody that even doesn't know in general hove to make kilt. But it's much easier to make modern kilt. You can get good instructions for free on the www (or PM me).