Mens Suiting Is Drab

Discussion of fashion elements and looks that are traditionally considered somewhat "femme" but are presented in a masculine context. This is NOT about transvestism or crossdressing.
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crfriend
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by crfriend »

STEVIE wrote: Sun May 30, 2021 6:21 pmThe fact is that women have themselves to thank for their wider choices and now it is time for men to grab a piece of the same action.
It can only lie in our own hands nobody will give it on a plate.
Indeed, we can take this as gospel.

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Daryl
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by Daryl »

Dust wrote: Thu May 27, 2021 3:30 am The thirds thing works as floor to knees, knees to natural waist, natural waist to top of shoulders. This is the division on a "traditional" kilt outfit.

A men's suit jacket is roughly half the length from shoulder top/base of neck to the floor, dividing the body in half. A shorter jacket will usually look "off" with long pants, while a regular men's suit jacket looks off with a knee length skirt or shorts. The proportions are wrong.

This is why your suit with both a pair of pants and a skirt will be tough to make work. What does work well is a vest and knee length skirt. That same vest will work well under a jacket with pants but it's okay without the jacket since it's "traditional" menswear. A long (floor length or close) skirt will work better with a regular men's jacket. A wrap or a-line would be good.
I think you're right. It's going to be tough to make it work. Maybe I'll have to have two suits made with a common vest but separate jackets and bottoms. Grrr, more material and more labour.
Daryl...
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by STEVIE »

Daryl wrote: Mon Jun 14, 2021 5:17 am I think you're right. It's going to be tough to make it work. Maybe I'll have to have two suits made with a common vest but separate jackets and bottoms. Grrr, more material and more labour.
But who is making it tough to make it work?
Who decrees that the same jacket and vest cannot be worn with either a skirt or trousers?
Nah, less rules are the key to wider choices, the rest is between you and your credit card provider,
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by Dust »

Daryl wrote: Mon Jun 14, 2021 5:17 am I think you're right. It's going to be tough to make it work. Maybe I'll have to have two suits made with a common vest but separate jackets and bottoms. Grrr, more material and more labour.
I've seen some pics online of what looked to be standard men's jackets with ankle length a-line skirts that looked good. It's an option I've wanted to try, but only works as a suit if you have a source for matching fabric, as the skirt requires far more material than you can get out of an existing pair of pants.

Our own Mark has had existing men's suit pants modified into knee length pencil skirts with no changes to the jacket, and it looks okay, but a bit off to my eye. Most here don't seem to mind, so look through his pics and decide for yourself.

Some people seem to be getting jackets cut just a bit shorter these days anyway to go with pants with the highly tailored modern fit, so maybe you could get something that would look a bit aggressively tailored (short) with pants, and on the longer side but okay with a skirt. I don't know, but it might work with a below the knee skirt and some heels. It's a route I've considered going with an odd jacket...

I'm curious where you are going to have this done. I don't think it matters specifically who, as you're probably not near me, but on a general note, are you going to a tailor who does custom work, a kilt maker, or a seamstress? Does one simply walk into a custom menswear shop and ask if they'll make you a skirt suit?

Can you buy extra matching fabric when you get an off-the-rack suit to take elsewhere and have a skirt made? I know females that have done this with dresses (get extra fabric) to have made (or make themselves) a small jacket, or add sleeves to the dress itself. Some bridal shops do that sort of work in house as well. But unless you are spending wedding dress kind of money, paying someone else for this sort of work might not make sense.
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by rivegauche »

Getting a skirt or suit made is not as prohibitive as you might think. I have had a skirt suit made beautifully for around £80 with me supplying the fabric. You can get a dress made for around the same amount if you supply the fabric. Any dressmaker should be fine with this - I think over the years I have used four - all were happy to measure a man and fit him. The suit I had made has a short fitted jacket and a ginormous swirling skirt with voluminous matching net petticoats that can be added (they are separate). I wish now I had bought extra fabric and had a short pencil skirt made as well - the number of times you can wear a suit with a ginormous skirt is limited and I have only worn it in public once - dressed as a woman out for dinner with a woman friend.
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by Kirbstone »

Recently I have been enjoying a lengthy Netflix series, 'Suits' about a Manhatten law firm and the adventures of the chief protagonists therein. The man invariably wear tailored dark suits but the ladies all wear stunning designer creations, have figures to die for and are extremely easy on the eye. They have all the sartotial fun, for sure.

I have had a few skirtsuits made up for me. As a knee-length person I like a flared skirt design paired with a short jacket, shaped a well as possible while fitting my very male figure. I'm not into bright colours and favour sober pinstripes or similar. I have used CrossdresserNL and Ravi-Tailor based in Thailand, neither of them cheap.

At my given altitude (6'2") I don't attempt to wear anything above 2" high on my feet

Tom
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Ray
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by Ray »

Tom, I’m interested in getting a skirt suit. What sort of cost are we looking at?

I’m also keen on modifying a current suit where the trousers (two pairs) are both worn at the top of the legs. Repurposing the trousers into a skirt appeals considerably.

Ray
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Kirbstone
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by Kirbstone »

Ray,
Repurposing trousers strikes me as a very difficult sewing challenge and making yourself up a skirtsuit shouldn't pose a problem for you. It'd save you a lot of expense, too.

I've never done any sewing, so to get hold of a skirt suit I first used a lady down in Brighton who has since retired. She made me up a 'female' pinstriped chick little suit, the top being a bolero, or type of fitted waistcoat, the bottom being a pleated flared 17" matching mini with slash pockets.

Next came Ravi-Tailor, based in Thailand with a tight little short jacket top over a very full flared knee-length. This in light grey. They screwed me for about £250, on top of which was a hefty Customs & Excise loading af about £40 on delivery.

Twice I used CrossdresserNL who in a section invite you to design your own. From them I got several orders, some wrap skirts with pockets and a few box pleats revealing contrasting colours, also two skirtsuits, one in a dark green check, the other pinstripe grey. Lined they worked out at just under £300 each. With Brexit now in force I expect stuff from NL would now attract a loading entering GB.

I won't be ordering any more, as at age 79 I have more than enough to see me out!

Tom
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K_Highlander
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by K_Highlander »

I found these two sites that create custom clothes made to your measurements.
It would be possible to have a skirt and men's (or women's jacket) made to order with the same fabric.
I will let each of you decide if the price is right.
For myself, my wife is (sort of) accepting my skirts. Even has told me some skirts are "too feminine".
So I think a skirt suit might put her over the edge in terms of her acceptance.

Has anybody used these companies?
https://www.sumissura.com/en-us/
Women’s made-to-measure Clothing | Custom Suits and dress Shirts | Sumissura

https://www.hockerty.com/en-us/
Men Custom Suits & Custom Dress Shirts | Hockerty

Thanks
Ken
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by Ray »

Tom, thanks for your hugely detailed response. That’s really helpful and much appreciated.

I’m keen to repurpose my suit as I love the colour so much, but I acknowledge your comments on relative difficulty. If only I could find the material and get a matching skirt for the jacket!

I feel a purchase coming on next year…
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Kirbstone
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by Kirbstone »

Ray,
I clean forgot to mention that that last skirtsuit i had made up was from Sumissura, mentioned by K. Highlander. The Hockerty site is connected, but just make mens' suitings.

Somewhere way back in 'pics & looks' I submitted pics of that Sumissura skirtsuit modelled in front of a donkey shed in our front field....a fitting backdrop!

Tom
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by crfriend »

I have a Sumissura shirt-dress that I'm quite pleased with and which gets a certain amount of mileage.

Also, I have two from eShakti and am happy with those, too.
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nzfreestyler
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by nzfreestyler »

How about buying suiting separates from a womens clothing retailer.
I find the skirt suit prices are half that of mens suiting -

I have some suits with pants - higher waisted pants and cropped skinny leg sort of styles - and they too are cheaper than mens suiting.

Perhaps given the lack of belt loops/pockets/cuffs - smaller sizes and shorter lengths etc the fabric usage is less - so it makes it cheaper too?

The benefit of buying a skirt suit of the shelf is that you can pick the skirt & jacket sizes separately to suit your shape and the cut/sizing of the manufacturers production.

just my suggestion...?

cheers
NZF
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Mark as in Mark
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by Mark as in Mark »

hey Guys, I just bought a matching tweed skirt and men's blazer from a UK company. Walker and Hawkes It's a little heavy to wear now but come colder days it will be perfect
I was told I have balls for wearing skirts! My reply? "That's because balls this big won't fit in pants!"

https://www.pinterest.de/Mark_as_in_Mark/me/
https://www.instagram.com/markbryan911/
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Kirbstone
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Re: Mens Suiting Is Drab

Post by Kirbstone »

Just dug this out. It had been submitted to Rockmode.de a little while ago.

I'd like to see a pic of that new suit combo you've ordered in the UK, Mark.

Tom
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