The bicycle dilemma

[partlyscot]

As a bike fitter, I should give the approved way of measuring saddle height. It is correct to say that it is best to avoid overextension of the leg, but maximum efficiency means you should get as much extension as you safely can. If you are not using pedal straps, or some kind of click in shoe, it is probably better to go a little lower than max. Foot retention systems allow greater accuracy in addition to their other efficiency advantages. Going significantly lower than that, on the other hand, can cause problems in the longer term. Most casual or untrained riders tend to do this.

The best way to measure the angle is on a trainer, or fitting stand. After analysing the pedalling action and determining how much ankle motion takes place at the very bottom of the stroke, the leg and foot should be put in a matching position at full stroke. The angle between the ankle bone, centre of knee, and Greater Trochanter (the big knobby lump attached to the top of your femur or thigh bone) should be 30-32 degrees. It is sometimes quite difficult to be precise, and caution should be taken to avoid doing this on the longer leg, as that means the shorter leg can go into overextension. (this can be adjusted on the shoe cleats if using cleated pedal/shoe systems) Watching the hips when pedalling is advised to see if there is any rocking of the hips. The best way to do the measuring involves a motion tracking system, which would make this part of my job much easier, but the cost is horrendous. As it is, our fixed fitting stands cost more than I would want to pay.

Basically, go as high as you can without any sensation of pointing the toes to scrape the bottom of the stroke, and no rocking of the hips to get down to max pedal stroke either. The motion should feel as fluid as you can reasonably make it.

The video posted by beachlion looks pretty good, and Dillon's comment is accurate, in that most people would interpret the visible angle at about 20 degrees depending on leg length and knee shape and size.

[Kirbstone]

No dilemma here.
Beau-tiful morning and I went for a short spin on my foldie. Stand is just for the 10-sec. dash, so I didn't have to pick the bike up off the ground! Wide A-line knee-length denim just perfect for that little unisex bike. Stretch only apparent when one puts a foot to the ground.

Tom

[Kilty]

No dilemma here.
Beau-tiful morning and I went for a short spin on my foldie. Stand is just for the 10-sec. dash, so I didn't have to pick the bike up off the ground! Wide A-line knee-length denim just perfect for that little unisex bike. Stretch only apparent when one puts a foot to the ground.

Tom

Looks like a decent skirt, Tom! Enough to keep your modesty but that little bit of stretch which I like around my hips. I have never liked loose fitting skirts or ones too long, as I find them hard to manage due to excess material when I need to pee. Probably why I prefer pencil skirts as they are easier to pull up and sit in that regard

[xman29]

[quote="Taj"]I've had no problems riding with a Mountain Hardwear El Kommando kilt.[/quote]
I tried that also. No problem. You just tilt the bike to the side to get on. Also it didn't flip up when I rode.

[straightfairy]

I've tried more since my last post on this thread.

My black utility kilt was too heavy, with the fabric being too stiff and heavy to allow it to move freely, plus the pleats at the back were uncomfortable.

The Khaki utility kilt was better, mainly because the fabric is better and more flexible.

My Craghoppers Nosilife skirt was much better, although the light fabric meant that it rode up my legs with the wind, risking possible exposure. I found myself slowing down and pushing the fabric down when cycling towards oncoming pedestrians. I suspect a press stud front/back would solve this nicely.